footage of me surfing in bali shot by my friend jimmy jazz james
/// there’s nothing more fun than organising my gear the night before, placing it primed by the doorway. my clothes for the morning are neatly folded next to the bed as i close my eyes, visualising what the next day will hold as i drift off to sleep.
the alarm goes mad, waking me from my slumber. It is 5:30 AM and the only noise is sleep from my other half. picking up my things, walking out the door with a banana i grabbed from the kitchen table. off to the beach i go, the sky slowly wakes up. i watch some blurry waves spit their guts out like a salmonella induced fit. the froth is high and i put my leg rope on the wrong leg. i sprint to the waters edge, the sky painting the ocean golden. no human soul in sight. it is me and the ocean ///
/// a californian legend by the name of dylan gordon came and stayed at my house in gisborne for a week to sample some kiwi goodness, which he most definitely did. he also filmed this for surfer mag /// chur brother!
/// click the photo to watch the film on surfermag.com